"Humid times"

This summer has been testing for our gardens.
Sunday, 21 January 2024     

Pentas lanceolata have thrived in the summer heat and humidity

Happy New Year to iGarden readers! It seems ages since my last blog in December. So far, the very dry summer that was predicted for us by the Australian Bureau of Meteorology in September 2023 has not really materialised: we recorded almost 200 ml of rain in our gauge last week alone! And over the past few weeks, we have experienced days of muggy humidity that made me feel as if I were in Jakarta! We have always had humid summers, in Sydney, but this was something else again! Apparently very warm sea surface temperatures off the coast of NSW are causing more evaporation and hence more moisture-filled air, raising the 'dew point' to oppressive levels. The higher the dew point, the hotter we feel the apparent temperature to be, because it is harder for perspiration to evaporate from our skin to cool us down. Some studies also suggest high humidity can cause psychological distress as well. In severe cases, sunstroke and heat exhaustion can occur if someone is exposed to extreme humidity and heat combined.

What about our plants?? We humans often have the option of retreating to air-conditioned comfort, but the plants are marooned in the garden! Instead of perspiring, plants transpire: the process through which they draw water up through their roots, spreading moisture and nutrients through the stems, then releasing processed moisture into the air, primarily from their leaves. High humidity levels can slow down this process, as the surrounding air is already saturated with water vapour. This slowdown can affect the plant's ability to draw up nutrients from the soil, leading to potential deficiencies and reduced growth. High humidity can also interfere with the process of photosynthesis, by which plants use sunlight to turn carbon dioxide (from the atmosphere) and water (from the soil) into oxygen and the sugars that the plant cells can use for energy. Very high humidity also can impact a plant's ability to cool itself, a huge problem if it is a plant not suited to a hot climate. This may account for some mysterious overnight deaths of plants during humid times.

Plants that originate in hot, humid climates have various adaptations that enable them to cope, and indeed thrive, in these conditions - but plants from places in the world that have a cooler climate overall or have a dry heat will really struggle when the humidity on our hot summer days soars. This includes plants from Mediterranean areas, California, West Australia, Mexican deserts and low-humidity areas of South Africa - which over time, I have come to realise are not generally destined for a long life in a Sydney garden. I have found that it is plants from places like south-east Asia, India, South American countries (especially Brazil), Texas and the humid regions of Mexico and South Africa that flourish best in our climate, perhaps more so than ever now.

Hot and humid conditions also promote the growth of fungal diseases. Plants that come from areas of high heat and humidity have adaptations to allow moisture to flow off their leaves - such as a pointed end of the leaf called a 'drip tip'. But plants from low-humidity areas often have hairy or downy leaves in order to trap water vapour close to the leaf surface, making them more likely to succumb to fungal diseases when humidity is high. Examples of these include many silver-leaved plants such as lavender and Santolina, Stachys byzantina (lambs' ears) and Lychnis coronaria. Many traditional cottage garden plants that have a basal rosettes of foliage (such as Aquilegia, Geranium, Silene, Verbascum and herbaceous Salvia are often attacked by fungal diseases in times of high humidity as moisture collects under the foliage close to the ground. Succulents also suffer in times of high humidity due to their leaf adaptations to a hot, dry climate. Downy mildew, botrytis, blight fungus, sooty mould and rust are just some ghastly fungal diseases that thrive on damp leaves in high heat and humidity.

Fungal diseases are also more often to occur in the soil in times of high humidity and heat, and I have at times found patches of a nasty white fungus attacking my Dahlia, Japanese windflowers, bearded Iris and perennial Phlox.

What can we do? With immediate problems of fungal diseases, I have been drenching and spraying my problem plants with an organic fungicide based on potassium bicarbonate, which supposedly destroys the fungal growth and leaves a protective coating on the foliage to prevent more spores from germinating. The fungicide can be mixed with some horticultural oil to help it stick on to the foliage. Interestingly, some authorities also recommend the use of neem oil or horticultural oil for these problems as these also keep the spores from developing.

An old home remedy for black spot and rust is to dissolve a teaspoon of bicarb soda in a litre of water, adding a dash of horticultural or vegetable oil (to help the mixture stick), and spray this on affected foliage. It can also be used regularly as a preventative measure. Milk has also been touted as a black spot cure and powdery mildew: mix one cup of full cream milk with two cups of water, shake well and spray on the leaves. Some gardeners swear by an application of weak compost 'tea' sprayed on foliage as a cure for diseases. To combat sooty mould, a suggested recipe is two parts sunflower oil to one part dishwashing liquid.

Adding plenty of compost to your soil can encourage microorganisms that are helpful in fighting diseases. Regular application of a seaweed-based solution can help stimulate strong, healthy growth that might be more able to withstand diseases. Making sure you have good air circulation around your plants will also help reduce problems with fungal diseases.

Try not to water over foliage, as this can promote diseases if the moisture lingers, especially overnight. Remove and destroy fallen leaves, flowers or fruit that are afflicted with a disease - don't leave them there to potentially reinfect the plant and certainly don't add them to your compost heap: put them in the green refuse bin. Remove any badly affected leaves from the plant and put them in the green bin, too, before spraying anything on the plant. Disinfect tools with methylated spirits after using them on infected plant material to avoid cross-infection.

In the longer term, especially if higher levels of humidity are going to become more frequently experienced, plant choice is the most important consideration. Embracing plants that come from semitropical areas where high heat and humidity are the norm has been the way forward for me in my garden, heartbreaking as it was to give up the dream of an English cottage garden.


 Reader Comments

1/5  Margaret - 2122 (Zone:10 - Warm Temperate) Monday, 22 January 2024

It was a long time since your last blog, glad you are continuing with imparting your knowledge to inform and help we gardeners. I have been lucky and have not had a fungal problem, so far. I was interested in the old home remedy for black spot and rust - it is better not to use chemicals for problems I feel, and old gardeners had the answer for many garden problems. Cane begonias are a very giving plant, with few, if any, problems. Thanks, Margaret. Glad you haven't had any problems with horrid diseases thus far! Deirdre


2/5  Teresa - 2060 (Zone:10 - Warm Temperate) Monday, 22 January 2024

Ive been waiting for your new posting Deirdre - hoping youd comment on humidity problems. Ive used bicarb to treat the fungus in our lawn and it seems to have kept it under control. The other problem is possums destroying fuchsias, impatiens, coleus, and two Blue Moon tibou china shrubs, never touched before this. Thanks so much, Teresa. Glad you have had success with the bicarb soda. Those possums sound a nuisance; I wish I knew the answer to them! Deirdre


3/5  Lillian - 3951 (Zone:10 - Mediteranean) Monday, 22 January 2024

Thank you Deirdre for this refreshing 'back-to-basics' article. We get so much info on top of info that masses of useful facts & hints are forgotten/lost. In my part of Gippsland we didn't get torrents, but it has been wetter than average, cloudy & cold, so many of the mildews/moulds/etc have shown up. All growth has been colossal- even bigger leaves than normal! Definitely time to hack back and aerate. Return of black spot means I'll definitely try milk method. Sincere best wishes for 2024. Thanks so much, Lillian. There has certainly been tremendous growth in the garden this summer! Deirdre


4/5  Sue - 2074 (Zone:10 - Warm Temperate) Tuesday, 23 January 2024

Thanks for an interesting blog Deirdre. I have used a dash of washing up liquid in water to spray for sooty mould on a camellia with success. At the moment have mites on the dahlias, beans and capsicum which I sprayed with Eco Bug organic but with rain around it washes off too quickly. Would have thought high humidity was against an outbreak of mites. Have taken the tops off the dahlias in the hope they will do their thing late summer/autumn. Hoping for lovely autumn weather. Thanks, Sue. The mites have been a problem on my dahlias too. I am planning to cut the affected bits off and hope for regrowth. Deirdre


5/5  Valerie - 2121 (Zone:10 - Warm Temperate) Friday, 26 January 2024

Thanks for your excellent summary of the effects of heat and humidity on both humans and their gardens. The remedies you mention are very helpful too. Am coaxing a couple of salvias along. When to water and not is a bit tricky sometimes. The Brazilian red salvia is loving it. I should take some cuttings and put in more of them. Your salvia sounds great! I am propagating more of what does well and adding them to the garden, to fill bare spots where I have had fatalities! Deirdre


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