November and December see daylilies (Hemerocallis cultivars) at their peak. Though lasting but a day, each bold trumpet-shaped flower makes an impact in the garden, and a well-established clump will give many blooms. The original species come from China and Japan, and number around twenty-six; their flowers are mainly in the yellow to orange colour range. Some of these are still worth growing, such as double orange-flowered Hemerocallis fulva 'Flore Pleno' (which is said to tolerate some shade, unlike most other daylilies) and fragrant, yellow-bloomed Hemerocallis lilio-asphodelus .
Nowadays, there are more than 50,000 registered cultivars in existence and every possible colour daylily has been bred (except for absolute pure white and true blue), which gives amazing scope for creating colour schemes in the garden. Flower sizes vary from true miniatures (less than 7.5cm across) to large-flowered ones 11cm or wider. Flower shapes also vary, from the basic trumpet shape to elegant spidery-looking ones, star-shaped, triangular, full circle formations and doubles. Many have contrasting coloured 'eye-zones' and throats, which give a dramatic look. The best sorts for Sydney gardens seem to be the evergreen ones; the deciduous types seem to be better in cooler climates. There are early-, mid- and late-blooming types: I have one called 'August Flame' that flowers spectacularly in January when all the others have finished. Some reflower over the warmer months: two I have of this type are 'Cranberry Baby' (wine-red blooms) and 'On and On' (peach-coloured flowers) - these really earn their keep in the garden. .
Easy to grow, daylilies enjoy a sunny, well-drained position in soil improved with organic matter. A little lime is said to be beneficial - if your soil is inclined to be on the 'acidic' side. Daylilies dislike competition from nearby tree or shrub roots and they may rot off in very poorly drained soil. The crown should be at soil level; planted too deeply, it may rot. Water well for the first few weeks until they become established. It is possible to grow them in containers, especially the lower-growing cultivars, with the optimum pot diameter being around 30cm. They do appreciate some regular water during their growing season; though they cope with dry spells very well, flowering will not be as prolific. Keep the plants well mulched to retain moisture and minimise weeds, but don't let the mulch touch the crown of the plant or it may rot.
Daylilies respond well to fertilisers applied in September and again in March. Occasional applications of liquid fertiliser will be beneficial in between times. The clumps can be propagated by dividing the fleshy roots every three years in autumn or winter, and replanting in fresh soil, as flowering will be affected when the clumps become too congested. The clump can be dug up completely, or a serrated knife can be used to saw the clump in half and then one-half of it can be lifted and divided. The leaves can be trimmed in late autumn or winter if they are looking scruffy. Some growers cut these off completely in June.
Aphids can be a nuisance, especially if the plants are stressed, and these should be tackled with horticultural oil or even soapy water, before they get out of hand and significantly reduce the vigour of the plant. Thrip can be controlled by overhead watering of the plant. Slugs and snails may also ruin the foliage, so need to be guarded against. A recent threat to daylilies is a rust, which weakens and disfigures the foliage. I have had reasonable success with removing the affected foliage at ground level and getting rid of it in the rubbish bin. The new leaves tend to grow without the rust, at least for a while. Organic fungicides can help, as can avoiding watering the plants in the afternoon or evening.
I think that the larger-flowered daylilies look best in gardens with shrubs or with warm-climate perennials (such as Salvia, Dahlia, Canna and Agapanthus), as their flamboyance and brilliant colours do not meld quite so well with dainty cottage garden planting schemes; miniature-flowered daylilies work better with these. Two reliable miniatures for the Sydney climate are bright red 'Crimson Icon' and orchid pink 'Siloam Bo Peep', which has a purple eye-zone. Daylilies, especially the spidery-looking ones, also associate well with ornamental grasses and prairie-style plants.
Blog first posted 6 December 2008; updated 13 November 2022.
I am fond of daylilies, and had quite a collection. Unfortunately, over the years they disappeared, but thanks to friends, such as you, I am gathering plants again. Even though one flower only lasts one day, others take their place, and the show can last for some time. I really enjoy the bold and beautiful ones, such as August Flame. Thank you for the infomation. Thanks, Margaret. Autumn Flame is a favourite as it appears after all the others have finished, and is so vibrant. Deirdre
lots of info here, thank you; should you deadhead the next day or leave for a while? I generally groom the plants each day - however, see Paula's comment below. Deirdre
I love these plants .. they take on the role of providing colour when the bearded iris finish flowering in my garden. Thank you Deirdre, your blogs are wonderful. Thank you, Jill! They certainly have a great presence in the garden at this time of year. Deirdre
Thanks for this helpful blog Deirdre. I have been given a few recently and am still waiting for them to flower. They are certainly bright and cheerful plants. Hopefully they withstand the rain and winds we have been having. The green dragon is lovely. Hope your new ones do well. Generally, I find them pretty robust. Deirdre
Margaret, you can deadhead spent flowers but sometimes bees or you can pollinate new varieties of daylilies by transferring the pollen of one flower to the stigma of a different daylily flower. In that case leave the dead flower until it can be safely removed from the growing seed pod in case you dislodge the pod. Enjoy. Thanks for this information, Paula. Deirdre
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