Sunday, 10 August 2014
One of the highlights of my recent trip to France was a visit to Monet's garden at Giverny, outside of Paris. Whilst this is of course a prime tourist destination (with more than half a million visitors a year) and we encountered the inevitable rows of coaches and crowds at the garden, I thoroughly enjoyed the time I spent there. I had pretty much expected it to be planted out in a mad riot of colour (mainly low-growing annuals) but I was thrilled to find unusual perennials and shrubs, and excellent planting combinations. The exciting colour schemes and the sheer exuberance of the plantings made me feel like I was actually walking through a Monet painting!
There has been a new head gardener, James Priest, at Giverny for the last couple of years, who has been trying to get the garden back to more like it was in Monet's day. I gather he felt that the garden had become a bit of a hotchpotch over the years since its opening to the public in 1980. Using old photographs and examining Monet's own paintings of the garden, James Priest has renewed the colour schemes of the main garden, and the visitor can really see the eye of an artist in the borders. A startling display of pink and red zonal Pelargonium near the house (pictured above) can be seen in an old photo with Monet standing in front of them, for example!
The main flower garden is set out in a grid format (although the strict formality of the layout is softened by the luxuriant summer growth at this time of year), with a group of four long, narrow borders separated by paths; the Grand Allée (pictured) with its series of rose-clad arches and thickly planted borders on either side; a group of a number of small 'paintbox' beds with more long, narrow borders running the length of this section; and some informal grassy areas planted with small trees. It is impossible to do justice to the garden in a blog, so I will just talk about some of the aspects that took my eye.
The long borders on the western side of the garden include many hot-coloured flowers in exciting combinations - Monet had chosen this area for such warm colours apparently, because the backlighting from the setting sun would make flowers of these hues really glow. The use of dark foliage as a counterpoint to these brilliant colours was effectively done. The Grand Allée alongside used mainly orange, burgundy and deep purple flowers at the time of our visit, and was a joy to behold.
On the other side of the Grand Allée, misty pinks, mauves and blues are used - colours that are enhanced by the early morning light. Plants of different are interspersed like dabs of paint - and just as in Monet's paintings, where scatterings of small strokes of white paint create an impression of light, small white flowers are woven through the plantings. The use of bi-coloured flowers with streaks of different hues also adds to the 'painterly' look of the plantings.
In contrast, the small 'paintbox' beds are planted out monochromatically as in Monet's time, and these blocks of single colours of just one type of plant looked to me almost like an artist's palette, using flowers instead of paint. They show the different tones and shades of colours: the hotter scarlet reds compared to the cooler crimson reds and the different shades of pinks, for example - a useful resource for anyone using colour in the garden. This part of the garden was apparently originally inspired by blocks of single-coloured tulips that Monet saw growing in Holland.
Every season has its signature flowers at Giverny - the irises of spring and the nasturtiums of late summer, for example. Our visit was in high summer and the flower that seemed to feature most was the daisy - in many forms and sizes, ranging from Dahlia, marguerite daisies, Zinnia, Rudbeckia to Euryops, Cosmos, Tithonia and Gaillardia. There were many annuals and biennials to be seen, but though these are planted out every year by the (20!) gardeners, they appeared quite naturalistic, as if they might have simply self-seeded from year to year. Tall annuals and biennials such as hollyhocks, sunflowers and Verbascum added to the drama of the garden, and many metal structures adorned with climbers, along with standardised roses, provideded height to the borders.
In contrast to the formal layout of the main garden, the famous water garden is a much more naturalistic area, and despite the hordes of tourists taking 'selfies' on the Japanese bridge, it still manages to retain an authentic atmosphere of serenity. It is quite a strange feeling to be standing in a garden depicted so prolifically in Monet's work. I hadn't expected that the ponds would be surrounded by quite dense plantings of Japanese and other Asiatic plants, including bamboo, maples, azaleas, weeping willows, Hydrangea, Rhododendron, Japanese water iris, peonies and many perennials. It was truly a delight.
The village of Giverny is well worth wandering in after visiting Monet's garden, and the Ancien Hotel Baudy has a pretty garden and the studio where Renoir, Cezanne, Sisley and other artists painted when they visited the village. There is an excellent garden outside the Impressionist art gallery in the village, with colour-themed borders. To see many paintings by Monet of his garden, it is worth visiting Musée Marmottan on the outskirts of Paris, a gallery not generally frequented by tourist coaches!
- By Jan 2582 Monday, 11 August 2014
Sounds like an amazing experience - thanks for sharing! Thanks, Jan. It was definitely a highlight of the trip. Deirdre
- By margaret 2122 Monday, 11 August 2014
love Monet"s garden, too. When I visited, years ago, the colour theme was red, white and blue, but with a huge patches of nasturtiums on the path leading to the door. As well as the garden, I was enchanted by the kitchen, it was so colourful and inviting. Your description transported me back to that sunny day, a highlight of our trip! The house is certainly wonderful to visit, as well as the garden, and I too loved the colours in the rooms. The bright buttercup yellow of the dining room and the brilliant blue of the kitchen! Deirdre
- By Geoff 2323 Monday, 11 August 2014
I thoroughly enjoyed the garden when we visited it in 2012. Our guide for the day had us up early so we were one of the first groups there and headed for the water garden. Very good advice. In addition to the most interesting garden, the house itself is also great. And I agree abut walking through the village...I suspect quite a number of groups rush to the garden and then leave, whereas the village has a number of fascinating gardens, including the Impressionist Art Gallery. That is a good tip about heading first to the water garden. The house is certainly delightful and the village is charming. We spent the whole day on our trip there and it was very memorable. Deirdre
- By Angela 2203 Monday, 11 August 2014
I visited on 30 April this year and was incredibly lucky to see the iconic wisteria in full bloom on the bridge in the water garden.The "house" garden was filled with tulips and irises to die for. I can recommend getting there via the train from Gare St Lazare to Vernon and cycling to Giverny with a cycling tour.It was a wonderful day I will never forget. That must have been great to go on the bicycle tour. Must have been fab to see those flowers that were out during your visit in spring. Deirdre
- By Peta 2758 Monday, 11 August 2014
Your description of the "paintbox" beds is food for thought. I"d love to have the iron will and discipline needed to stick to one colour. Might try again. Thank you for the report on this iconic garden. Yes the paintbox beds were very interesting and not something I have seen elsewhere in a garden. I"d love to know more as to the thinking behind them. Deirdre
- By Chris 4034 Monday, 11 August 2014
Enjoyed your description of the garden very much. Lovely that you could see it and walk in this historical garden. Thanks Thanks, Chris. It is certainly fantastic to have my full mobility back now and to be able to walk and garden once more! Deirdre
- By Patricia 2100 Monday, 11 August 2014
How interesting and how generous you are to share all this beauty. What a good idea to use nasturtiums as a ground cover.The zonal geraniums, for most of us with small gardens, make a wonderful display in a sunny window box. Had months of delight last year until the battle against rust was lost. Do you know of a remedy for this problem? Many thanks again for such an interesting blog. Yes the nasturtiums cover the ground underneath the Grand Allee by autumn - they were just starting to creep out when we were there. As for rust on zonal geraniums, I guess you could spray with some sort of fungicide but I generally pick off and discard the worst of the leaves when affected. Some years are better than others. I also start them again from cuttings regularly to keep the plants young and healthy. Deirdre
- By Pam 2159 Monday, 11 August 2014
My husband and I visited the garden in the first week of April in 2012. The garden had just reopened after winter, and there were very few people there. The pansies and tulips were wonderful. Like Angela we caught the train, but then the little shuttle bus - an adventure too. Even before I visited, I had been planting iris for many years, and am gradually dividing them and edging all the garden beds with them - my touch of Monet. We also did the train and the little bus to get there and back. Lovely that your irises are doing so well. Deirdre